How to care for piano keys and cabinet surfaces

Why a little attention goes a long way

A piano is an odd piece of furniture: it is a precision instrument with thousands of moving parts, yet it lives in the middle of the home, breathing the same air as the cooking, the central heating and the family cat. Dust is not just untidy — it is mildly abrasive. Left to settle, it works its way into the gaps between the keys, dulls the cabinet finish and, over years, transfers from your fingertips into the action itself. The good news is that piano care is not complicated. Ten minutes a fortnight, done properly, will keep the keyboard pleasant to play and the cabinet looking as though it has just come out of the showroom.

Dusting: your first line of defence

Most of what a piano needs is regular, gentle dusting. Choose a clean, soft microfibre cloth or a well-washed cotton duster — nothing with loose fibres, and no feather dusters that simply move the dust around the room.

• Work with the grain of the wood, using long, light strokes rather than pressing down.
• On the keys, wipe front to back, in line with the length of each key, so you are not pushing dust sideways into the gaps.
• Use a soft, dry brush or a dry paintbrush for the narrow channel behind the keys, the cheek blocks and the music desk.
• Dust the lid, the top of the fallboard, the pedals and the legs — the places nobody thinks to look.
• Do not attempt to clean underneath the keys unless the fallboard lifts out easily; leave anything mechanical to a technician.

Cleaning the keys properly

When dusting is no longer enough, use the two-cloth method. Fill a small bowl with lukewarm water and add the merest trace of mild washing-up liquid. Dip a soft cloth, then wring it out until it is barely damp — it should feel almost dry to the touch. Wipe one octave at a time, front to back, then immediately go over the same keys with a dry cloth. Never let liquid run down into the gaps between the keys, and never spray anything directly onto the keyboard.

White keys vary enormously. Modern plastic keytops are forgiving and will tolerate a barely damp cloth. Many pianos made before the 1950s have genuine ivory, which is far more delicate: it has a faint grain, yellows with age and absorbs water readily. Keep the cloth practically dry, wipe gently, and dry straight away. Never use alcohol, bleach, scouring cream or abrasive pads on ivory, as they will strip the surface and leave it rough.

Black keys usually have a matt finish and show up greasy marks badly. A dry cloth will often do the whole job; use a damp one only where necessary, then buff dry so no residue is left in the corners.

Products to avoid

A surprising amount of household cleaning kit is bad news for a piano. It is worth being firm about this, because damage from the wrong product is often irreversible.

• Furniture polish containing silicone — it makes keys slippery and leaves a residue that is very difficult to remove or refinish.
• Aerosol sprays — if you use one at all, spray the cloth, never the instrument, and keep it well away from the action.
• Alcohol, ammonia, bleach, vinegar, white spirit and anti-bacterial sprays — all too harsh for keys and most finishes.
• Paper towels and kitchen roll — the wood-pulp fibres are abrasive enough to leave fine scratches on gloss.
• Baby wipes, hand creams and sunscreen — these leave a film that dulls keys and attracts dust. Wash and dry your hands before you play, every time.

Cabinet surfaces: match the cleaner to the finish

Before you touch the cabinet, work out what you are dealing with. Most pianos built since the 1970s have a hard-wearing polyester or polyurethane finish, which is fairly robust. Older instruments may have satin lacquer, high-gloss lacquer, or a French polish that is easily marked by water and heat.

• Polyester and high gloss: a microfibre cloth barely dampened with water is usually enough. Buff with a second dry cloth to avoid streaks, and do not overwet — gloss shows every smear.
• Satin lacquer: wipe lightly and dry straight away. Avoid rubbing in circles, which can polish small areas to a shine and leave a patchy appearance.
• French polish and shellac: dry cloth only for routine dusting. A little beeswax-based polish, applied sparingly with the grain, will feed the wood. Test on an inconspicuous spot first.
• Oiled or waxed wood: follow the maker's recommended oil or wax, and never use a water-based cleaner.

Keep separate cloths for keys and cabinet. A cloth that has picked up polish should never go near the keyboard.

Placement, humidity and the long game

Where a piano sits matters as much as how you clean it. Direct sunlight fades veneer unevenly, so keep it out of a south-facing window. Radiators, log burners and draughty doorways are equally unkind: pianos dislike rapid changes in humidity far more than they dislike a steady, slightly dry room. Aim for somewhere between 40 and 60 per cent relative humidity, ideally around 45 to 55 per cent. An inexpensive hygrometer will tell you where you stand, and a room humidifier nearby can help in dry winter months — but never place a bowl of water inside the instrument.

A few final habits are worth building. Keep drinks off the top, since a mug ring on polyester is stubborn to remove. Use felt or cork pads under lamps and photo frames. Lift rather than drag the piano, even for a few centimetres. Cover it while decorating, and have it tuned at least once a year — twice if it is played daily or the room swings between damp and dry. Care, in the end, is simply consistency: gentle cloths, mild products, and a little attention paid before problems have a chance to set in.